Nigella Seeds (Kalonji): A Cook's Introduction to the Little Black Seed

Nigella seeds are small, matte-black and shaped like tiny teardrops. They go by many names, including kalonji, black onion seed and, wrongly, black cumin or black sesame. They are different from all of those. If you have seen them sprinkled on naan or Turkish bread, you have already met them.

What they taste like

Nigella seeds are hard to describe. They are a little peppery, slightly bitter, faintly smoky and a bit like onion or oregano, with a crunch. Raw, they can taste sharp. Toasted or cooked, they become warm and mellow. A little goes a very long way.

Cleaning up the name confusion

Nigella is not the same as cumin (even though one of its common names is black cumin), nor is it black sesame. Because of this, check the Latin name, Nigella sativa, if you are unsure. If a recipe calls for kalonji, that is nigella.

How to use them

On bread. Brush naan, flatbread, pita or focaccia with a little oil or egg wash and press on a pinch of nigella before baking. They look beautiful and add a savoury bite.

In vegetables. Fry a teaspoon of seeds in hot oil for 20 seconds, then add chopped cauliflower, potatoes, aubergine or pumpkin. Nigella is a key part of the Bengali five-spice mix panch phoron, which also includes cumin, mustard, fennel and fenugreek seeds.

In pickles. Add a pinch to quick pickles or achar. The flavour holds up well to vinegar.

In dips and yoghurt. Stir a pinch into labneh or plain yoghurt with lemon and olive oil. Sprinkle on top before serving.

In pastry. Scatter on savoury cheese scones, crackers, feta pastries and shortcrust tarts.

Toasting

To bring out the aroma, dry-toast nigella over low heat for 30 to 60 seconds, shaking the pan. The seeds will smell warm and a few may pop. Remove straight away. They burn fast and turn acrid.

Start with half a teaspoon per serving. Seeds are potent, and a heaped spoonful can dominate. If you are new to the flavour, sprinkle it on top of dishes rather than cooking it in.

Buying and storing

Look for glossy black seeds without much dust or grey. Smell them: they should have a fresh, spicy aroma. Store in a sealed jar in a cool, dark cupboard for up to a year. Ground nigella loses flavour quickly, so grind small amounts.

Cauliflower roasted with oil, salt and nigella

Flatbreads with garlic butter and nigella

Lentil soup finished with a spoon of nigella fried in ghee

Tomato salad with feta, olive oil and a pinch of nigella

Who should check first

You will often see nigella oil and capsules promoted for health, but those are outside the scope of cooking. If you plan to take them in concentrated form, talk to a doctor, especially if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, taking blood thinners, diabetes or blood pressure medication, or preparing for surgery. Culinary sprinkles in food are a different matter, though anyone with a spice allergy should proceed carefully.

This article is general information, not medical advice.