Gorgon Nut

Euryale ferox is a floating water plant related to water lilies, with huge, round, wrinkled leaves that can span over a metre and are covered with spines, as is much of the plant, hence ferox, meaning fierce. Purple flowers open at the surface. The spiny, spongy fruit holds numerous round seeds the size of a pea, with a hard black shell and white starchy kernel. Raw seeds are hard and dense. When heated, the kernel pops into a white, light, crisp puff that tastes mild and slightly nutty. Sold as popped makhana in plain, roasted and flavoured packs, as dried raw kernels, or as flour.

The species is native to southern and eastern Asia, including India, Bangladesh, China, Korea, Japan and Russia's far east, growing in ponds, shallow lakes and wetlands. Bihar in India, especially the Mithila region, is today the main production centre. The genus name Euryale refers to one of the Gorgon sisters in Greek myth, probably alluding to the spiny, formidable look of the plant. Makhana is the Hindi and Maithili name, and the Chinese name qian shi means a type of seed used in herbal medicine.

Gorgon nut has a long record in East Asia. In China, the seeds, known as qianshi, appear in ancient materia medica and were used in tonics and cooking, and the plant has been cultivated in ponds for many centuries. In Japan and Korea it was also known as a food and medicine.

In India, makhana has been part of ritual fasting food and offerings for generations. It is eaten during religious fasts because it is considered suitable for such days, and it is part of festival sweets. In the Mithila region of Bihar, harvesting is done by communities of fishermen, who dive into ponds to collect seeds from the bottom, then dry, roast and pop them by hand in a labour-intensive process.

Makhana remained a regional food for a long time, but over recent years it has surged in popularity as a gluten-free, low-fat snack, and has found markets in cities and abroad. Mechanisation and cultivation in fields instead of natural ponds are being explored to ease the difficult harvest and increase supply, and the crop has received geographical indication recognition in Bihar.

Popped makhana is eaten as a snack, lightly roasted in ghee or oil with salt, pepper or other spices, and added to trail mixes. In Indian kitchens it also goes into kheer, a milk pudding, curries with paneer or peas, and raita. Raw seeds are boiled, ground to flour, or used in Chinese soups, congee and stews. In traditional Chinese medicine, the seeds are used in tonics for the spleen and kidneys. The leaves and stalks are eaten in some regions as vegetables. Store popped seeds in an airtight container to keep them crisp.

Popped makhana is low in fat and rich in starch, with modest protein, and contains small amounts of minerals such as potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. It is gluten-free and quite light, so it makes a snack with fewer calories per volume than many fried alternatives, though the way it is flavoured matters. Laboratory studies suggest antioxidant properties in the seeds, but good human trials are lacking, so benefits claimed in traditional medicine remain unproven.